Brass is the workhorse of African adornment: warm as gold, strong enough to be hammered and cast into real shapes, and affordable enough to wear every day. It has one quirk that surprises people new to it — brass tarnishes. Here is why that happens, how to bring the shine back in a few minutes, and how to keep pieces looking new for far longer.
Why brass tarnishes
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Copper reacts with oxygen and moisture in the air, and that reaction leaves a darker film on the surface. Sweat, humidity, perfume, lotion and the natural oils on your skin all speed it up.
The important thing to understand: tarnish is surface-level. The metal underneath is unchanged. A tarnished brass earring is not damaged or worn out, and the shine is always recoverable.
Many collectors grow fond of the deeper, older tone brass develops. If you like that patina, simply leave it — what follows is for when you want the bright finish back.
Before you clean: check what the piece is made of
This is the step most guides skip, and it is the one that prevents ruined jewelry. Acidic home remedies are safe on solid brass and harmful to almost everything else.
Do not use lemon, vinegar or baking soda paste if your piece includes:
- Cowrie shells, bone or horn — acid etches and dulls natural materials permanently.
- Leather or fabric cord — it will stain and stiffen.
- Glass or clay beads on thread — soaking weakens the thread long before the brass is clean.
- Plated or lacquered pieces — abrasives strip the coating and you cannot put it back.
The gentle method (safe for almost everything)
- Add a drop of mild dish soap to a bowl of warm water.
- Dip a soft cloth or a soft toothbrush, then wring it out so it is damp rather than wet.
- Work over the brass in small circles, paying attention to crevices and the backs of pendants where oils collect.
- Wipe with a clean damp cloth to lift any soap residue.
- Dry immediately and thoroughly with a soft dry cloth. Moisture left sitting in a join is what causes the next round of tarnish.
For light tarnish on solid brass, a dry microfibre or jewelry polishing cloth on its own is often enough. Try that before reaching for anything wet.
The deeper clean (solid brass only)
For a solid brass piece with no shells, stones, cord or plating:
- Make a paste from equal parts lemon juice and baking soda, or use a half lemon dipped in salt.
- Apply with your fingers or a soft cloth and rub gently along the surface.
- Leave for no more than 30 seconds. Acid keeps working as long as it sits.
- Rinse thoroughly under cool running water.
- Dry completely, then buff with a dry cloth to bring up the shine.
Test on the back of the piece first if you are unsure. And skip the harsh commercial metal polishes — they are formulated for door handles and candlesticks, not for jewelry you wear against skin.
Why brass sometimes turns skin green
A green mark on your finger or neck is the same copper reaction, happening against your skin instead of in the air. It is harmless, it washes off, and it says nothing about quality — it depends on your body chemistry, the weather and how acidic your skin is that day.
To reduce it: keep the piece clean and dry, take rings off before washing your hands, and if you are particularly prone to it, paint the inner surface of a ring band with a thin layer of clear nail polish and reapply occasionally.
Keeping tarnish away in the first place
- Jewelry last, always. Perfume, hairspray, sunscreen and lotion go on first and dry fully before brass touches skin.
- Take it off for water. Showers, pools and the sea. Chlorine and salt are the fastest route to dull metal.
- Wipe after wearing. Ten seconds with a dry cloth removes the day's oils and is the single most effective habit.
- Store airtight. A small zip bag or a closed box slows oxidation dramatically. Add an anti-tarnish strip or a packet of silica gel if you have one.
- Separate your pieces. Brass against harder stones and metals causes scratches that dull the surface.
Pieces worn often tarnish less than pieces left in a drawer, because handling keeps the surface moving. Brass likes to be worn.
Frequently asked questions
Does brass jewelry tarnish quickly?
It depends on humidity, your skin chemistry and how it is stored. Some people see a change within weeks, others after many months. Storing pieces airtight and drying them after wear makes the biggest difference.
Can I use toothpaste to clean brass?
We would not recommend it. Most toothpastes are mildly abrasive and leave fine scratches that make the surface dull faster next time. Soap and water, then a polishing cloth, is both safer and more effective.
Is brass jewelry good for sensitive skin?
Brass is nickel-free in most cases, which suits many people who react to cheaper alloys. If you know you are sensitive to copper, choose pieces where the brass sits away from skin, or seal the contact surface.
How do I clean brass that is combined with cowrie shells?
Gentle method only. A barely damp cloth on the metal, keeping water off the shells, then dry at once. Never soak a mixed piece, and never let acid near natural shell.
Built to be worn
Brass pieces at Millie's are chosen in person from jewelers and metalworkers across Africa — hammered, cast and finished by hand, which is why the weight and surface feel different from mass-produced jewelry.
See the earrings collection, including Millie's Signature Map of Africa Earrings and the Queen Zuri Earrings, or browse all jewelry.